We left Passo della Cisa in pouring rain and thick pea soup fog 21km for Pontremoli. We finally arrived at lunchtime completely wet through and cold we kept going. Nowhere to stop finally we saw a bar serving focacci paninni with a layby. Dripping wet we had a warm pannini then onto Aulla where there is a pilgrims hostel they were expecting us and the horses once the horses were settled we were shown our dormitory bliss out of our wet clothes that evening we ate at the restaurant for Pilgrims oh yes our dormitory had its own roof terrace overlooking Aulla and the Magra. Cesca had bought some while local wine which we sipped whilst enjoying the view.